How to install led strip lights around corners?

If you’re looking for a fun and easy way to add some ambient lighting to your home, then installing LED strip lights around corners is a great option! Not only do they provide a nice source of light, but they can also help to create a more relaxing atmosphere in any room. Plus, LEDs use very little electricity, so you’ll save money on your energy bills too! Below are step-by-step instructions on how to install LED strip lights around corners.

How to Install LED Strip Lights Around Corners

How to Install LED Strip Lights

How to Install LED Strip Lights
How to Install LED Strip Lights

Choosing Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) and Power Supplies

  • Measure where you’ll hang LEDs.

Determine how much LED illumination you’ll need. Measure each site where you’ll put LED lighting so you can cut it to size. Add the measurements to determine how much LED lights to buy.

Before installing, plan. Sketch the area, noting where you’ll put the lights and any adjacent outlets.

Consider the distance between the LED light and the nearest outlet. Fill the gap with longer lighting or an extension cord.

Online retailers sell LED strips and other materials. Department stores, home improvement centers, and light fixture stores sell them.

  • Check LED voltage.

Check the LED strip label or website if buying online. 12V or 24V LEDs. Long-term LED operation requires a compatible power supply. Otherwise, LEDs won’t work.

Multiple strips or chopped LEDs can be wired to the same power source.

12V lights fit most places and use less electricity. 24V is brighter and longer.

  • Determine the LED strips’ maximum power.

Each LED light strip consumes watts or electricity. The strip’s length matters. Check the lighting’s label for watts per 1 ft (0.30 m). Multiply watts by strip length.

Installing 25 ft (7.6 m) of lights that take 5.12 watts per foot: 128 watts = 25 x 3 ft.

Local measurements vary. Check if it’s watts per foot or meter.

Divide the total wattage on the label by the reel’s length. 24 / 5 = 4.8 watts per foot for a 5-ft (1.5-m) strip.

  • Multiply power usage by 1.2 to get the minimum rating.

The result shows how powerful your power supply must be to power the LEDs. Add 20% to the total as a minimum as LEDs may take more electricity than expected. So, LEDs always have enough power.

128 watts x 1.2 = 153.6 watts for a 7.6-meter strip. Without 153.6 watts, the lights won’t work.

153.6 watts x 20% = 30.72 watts. 153.6+30.72=184.32 total watts.

Many internet shops include a power supply calculator you may use.

  • Divide power usage by voltage to get amperes.
Divide power usage by voltage to get amperes.
Divide power usage by voltage to get amperes.

Your new LED strips need one last measurement. Amps measure electrical current speed. If the current doesn’t pass fast enough across long LED strips, the lights fade or turn off. Multimeters and math can be used to estimate amp rating.

128W x 12V = 10.66A for 12V LEDs.

Touch the multimeter’s leads to the LEDs’ copper dots to test. Set amps to A.

  • Buy an appropriate power supply.

Now you can choose the right LED power supply. Find a power source with the right wattage and amperage. Most power supplies are brick-style, like laptop adapters. After attaching it to the LED strip, you simply plug it into the wall. Most current adapters include LED strip connectors.

Adapters are needed to power individual LED strips. Each one’s power needs may be different.

Dimmable lights require a dimmable power supply. Between the power supply and LEDs, you might add a dimmer switch.

Hardwiring LED strips to your electrical source is another alternative. Call a certified electrician for help with the installation.

Putting LED Strips and Power Supplies in Connection with One Another

Putting LED Strips and Power Supplies in Connection with One Another
Putting LED Strips and Power Supplies in Connection with One Another
  • Connect LED strips using quick-connect plugs.
Connect LED strips using quick-connect plugs.
Connect LED strips using quick-connect plugs.

Connectors clip into the LED strip’s copper dots. These dots are plus or minus. Clip the wires to the dots. The red wire goes on a positive (+) dot, and black on the negative (-).

These connectors make modern LED setup easy, but you must buy them. They join LED strips or power sources.

Solder the strips together if you don’t have connectors.

  • Cover loose wiring with screw-on connectors.
Cover loose wiring with screw-on connectors.
Cover loose wiring with screw-on connectors.

Some LEDs and devices have screw-on terminals with wire slots. Examine the connector’s positive and negative terminals. Then, insert each wire. Turn Phillips screws clockwise to secure wires.

Screw-on connectors are useful for soldering, wiring in a dimmer, and connecting several LED strips to the same power supply.

  • Quickly connect the LED to electricity.

Your power supply’s cable has a plug. LED strip adapters are similar. LED strip power adapter plugs in. You may buy a fast connector to replace the LED plug if you cut it off.

If your LED strip doesn’t have a connector, try a clip-on, then a screw-on.

Strip splitters connect numerous LED strips to a power supply. One end contains LED plugs. The other end fits the power plug.

LED strip testing. Check the positive and negative wires if they don’t light up.

Joining LED Strips Together Through Soldering

  • Solder red and black wires to LED contacts.
Solder red and black wires to LED contacts.
Solder red and black wires to LED contacts.

LED lights feature two connections, each requiring a cable. Use 0.025 to 0.04 in (0.64 to 0.102 cm) wires. Each LED needs black and red cables.

Check the connector’s wires before connecting it to the wire. Buying separate wiring won’t be necessary.

LED strips have 4 wires. The 24V variation has red, blue, green, and yellow wires instead of red and black; check the identified copper dots on the LEDs.

Local wiring colors and sizes may vary. Power commonly uses black and red cables.

  • Remove 12 in (1.3 cm) of wire casing with wire strippers.
Remove 12 in (1.3 cm) of wire casing with wire strippers.
Remove 12 in (1.3 cm) of wire casing with wire strippers.

Measure a wire’s end. Then clamp the wire. Press until the casing cracks. Strip wires after removing the shell.

To solder new wires, remove both ends. If the wires are already connected, strip the loose end.

You can also cut off the casing with a knife, but avoid puncturing the wires.

  • Protect yourself and ventilate.
Protect yourself and ventilate.
Protect yourself and ventilate.

Soldering produces unpleasant vapors. Dust mask and open doors and windows for safety. Protect your eyes from heat, smoke, and sprayed metal by wearing safety glasses.

Heat-resistant gloves may hinder your soldering ability.

Keep people and pets away until the soldering iron has cooled.

  • The soldering iron will reach 350 °F (177 °C) in 30 seconds.
The soldering iron will reach 350 °F (177 °C) in 30 seconds.
The soldering iron will reach 350 °F (177 °C) in 30 seconds.

The soldering iron can melt copper without burning at this temperature. Handle the soldering iron carefully. Set it in a heat-safe soldering iron holder or hang onto it.

Use a 30-to-60W soldering iron. Copper will melt, but it won’t burn.

The soldering iron heats up and becomes evident. When hot, keep away from combustible surfaces.

  • Melt wires onto LED strip’s copper spots.
Melt wires onto LED strip's copper spots.
Melt wires onto LED strip’s copper spots.

Red wire over positive (+) dot, black wire over negative (-) dot. Take each one individually. Hold the soldering iron 45 degrees from the wire. Lightly touch the wire until it melts and sticks.

If the wires won’t stick, heat copper solder wire over them. Solder connects wires to LED pads.

  • Cool the solder for 30 seconds.
Cool the solder for 30 seconds.
Cool the solder for 30 seconds.

Solder cools quickly. When time’s up, touch the LED strip. If it’s hot, let it cool longer. After that, you can test your LED lights.

While LEDs cool, clean your soldering iron. After it cools, unplug it for storage.

Check the lights’ connections. Make sure the LED’s wires are securely hooked to the corresponding copper spots. If not, try a new strip.

  • Heat a shrink tube over exposed wires.
Heat a shrink tube over exposed wires.
Heat a shrink tube over exposed wires.

The shrink tube will protect the cable from electrical shock. Use a low-heat hairdryer. Move it back and forth to avoid scorching the tube. After 15 to 30 minutes of heating, you can install LEDs for household usage.

Even when soldered well, exposed wires are vulnerable. Cover them to keep them safe and last longer.

Heat shrink tubes with a gun or similar tool. Be careful not to burn or melt anything with an open flame.

  • Join solder wires to LEDs or connectors.
Join solder wires to LEDs or connectors.
Join solder wires to LEDs or connectors.

Soldering is used to unite LED strips by soldering the wires to the copper spots on the nearby strips. Wires power the LED strips. Wires can be plugged into a power supply or another device using a screw-on fast connector. If using a connector, insert the wires and tighten the screw terminals with a Phillips screwdriver.

Some fast connectors are prewired. Solder the LED strip wires to use the connector.

Do not bridge solder.

Putting on LEDs that are adhesive

  • Wash and dry the installation point.

Warm water on a clean cloth will remove debris. Any debris or scuff marks on the surface could prevent the LEDs from attaching. Wipe away any remaining moisture or let the surface air dry for 30 minutes.

Isopropyl alcohol can remove tough stains. Alternative cleaners include warm water and white vinegar.

If stains persist, apply a surface-specific cleaning. Wood surfaces need a wood cleaning.

  • Peel off the adhesive and stick the LEDs.
Peel off the adhesive and stick the LEDs.
Peel off the adhesive and stick the LEDs.

LED lights are like stickers; remove the backing when ready to install. Do this gradually. Peel the backing off the first LED light at one end. Position it, then hand-press it flat before continuing.

They’re mostly double-sided.

Relax. Check the LEDs’ placement so you don’t have to move them afterward.

If the strips won’t stick, clean the surface. You might also use mounting tape, velcro straps, mounting clips, or another tool.

  • LED strips have dotted lines for cutting.
LED strips have dotted lines for cutting.
LED strips have dotted lines for cutting.

Unroll the LED bulbs you need and locate the dotted lines. They’re placed every 2 in (5.1 cm) along each light. Cut the line to separate the strip from the reel. Check the length of the strip.

Mark where to cut. The strip won’t work if cut elsewhere. Copper dots let you connect the strip to another device.

LED strip lights have a disconnected section. It’s wire-free. It’s plastic. You must cut that. Cutting the connection won’t work.

Each LED strip you cut must be hooked to the power supply or a separate one. Don’t cut LEDs unless you absolutely need to.

How To Turn A Corner With LED Strip Lights

Many lighting projects use LED strip lights. Strip lights are adaptable, easy to install, inexpensive to buy and operate, and long-lasting. You can utilize 120-volt strip lighting or 12-volt low-voltage in practically any scenario. If you’ve never utilized LED strip lights, read on. LED strip lights

LED strip lights were installed above and below my kitchen cabinets. Straight runs made installing under the cabinets straightforward. I wanted the strip lights to follow the curvature of my crown molding on top, so I had to bend them around each cabinet corner. Single-plane strip lights bend well, but not laterally. For a corner LED strip, I had to get creative.

The Cut-and-Jump maneuver

The Cut-and-Jump maneuver
The Cut-and-Jump maneuver

A possible solution would be to go out and get an LED strip light jumper connector, then to cut the strip light in half and attach the connector in the middle. As the illustration demonstrates, this enables you to bend the two individual portions of strip light in any direction you like. If you do not have a bendable LED strip or if you are concerned about harming the strip, the best alternative is to use a connection instead of bending the strip.

The requirement to solder frequently posed by utilizing a jumper connector for corner installation is the primary disadvantage of this method. Connectors, on the other hand, can be purchased that eliminate the need for soldering. Having said that, I am innately lazy, so I was determined to find a method that was less difficult.

The Curve of the Ribbon

The Curve of the Ribbon
The Curve of the Ribbon

After a little bit of tinkering, I was able to find a simple method for the installation of the LED strip corner that looked excellent and was simple to put into action. I’ve decided to refer to it as the “ribbon bend.” (Some people refer to it as the “90-Degree Pinch.”) In essence, what I’m doing is looping or contorting the strip back around in a tight coil so that I may change direction in a way that doesn’t harm the strip light.

As can be seen, the piece that makes up the corner does not adhere to the surface. It appears to be floating there. Because this is only a brief segment, it does not compromise the installation’s overall reliability and does not significantly alter the degree to which the light is distributed over the room.

That is the extent of the matter. I was able to turn all of my corners with the installation of my LED lighting strips by employing this method, which did not require any additional equipment or added bother, and I am extremely satisfied with the results that it produced.

The Fold in the Corner

The Fold in the Corner
The Fold in the Corner

The following are the actions that need to be taken in order to fold a strip light at an angle of 90 degrees:

Place the strip on a surface that is completely flat, and then locate the point where you want to make the fold.

The strip light should be folded at a 45-degree angle in the direction that is perpendicular to the corner.

Fold it over so that it’s inside out.

Create a crease in the fold, and then secure it with super glue.

When used in circumstances in which the strip lights will be easily discernible, this corner fold provides a more polished appearance.

The Accordion Curve or Accordion

The Accordion Curve or Accordion
The Accordion Curve or Accordion

You may give your strip lights a progressive turn by employing little accordion folds that are spaced apart by several inches from one another.

The folding method is very much like what was mentioned in the previous paragraph. Accordion curves should be utilized for rounded edges and angles that are not 90 degrees (either greater or smaller than).

Common mistakes people make when installing LED strip lights

Today on the hookup, I’ll show you 7 common mistakes people make when installing LED strips and how to avoid them.

The diffuse light from LED strips looks nicer than the harsh point light from a light bulb, but while interior decorators have shown us how to use lightbulbs for decades, we haven’t figured out LED strips yet. Today I’ll explore 7 LED strip installation mistakes and how to avoid them.

Exposed LED strips are the most evident failing.

LED strips are unsightly and emit harsh light. If feasible, mount your strips behind a wall. This works wonderfully for strips behind a TV, under kitchen cupboards, or under a bed. In those cases, place LEDs in a diffused channel. These tubes hide the LED strips and make them easier to mount and keep straight. Aluminum channels are lightweight, won’t rust, and can be cut with a hacksaw. They come in unpainted metal, black, and varied shapes. 45-degree angle mounts for corners and flat profiles for walls and rooflines are my favorites.

This little technique will make your installs appear 10 times better: Layout and cut your channels, but don’t utilize the cut cover. Instead, offset channel and cover seams to make your installation look straight, even if it’s not.

LED strips can’t be curved like the back of my desk with aluminum channels. Silica gel neon tube covers diffuse light and are waterproof, hiding the LED strip inside. When ordering these, make sure your LED strip is narrow enough to go inside and that the direction you wish to bend it is suitable with the tube type you chose, meaning bends must be up or down, not left or right.

Second, indirect LED installations where someone failed to preserve a regular distance and angle to the surface they were projecting on.

This produces light hotspots that detract from the project’s appearance. In my experience, LED strip turns or adhesive failure generate hotspots. Both problems can be remedied easily and inexpensively.

The loop will generate a hotspot in the corner of your TV when the number of LEDs in that location rises and gets closer to the wall. Solderless LED corner connectors are preferable. Match the LED strip’s copper pads to the listing’s “pins.” This tunable white strip has 3 pins, so I’d look for a 3 pin corner connector, but this RGBW strip has 5, so I’d need a 5 pin connector. To install, cut the LED strips’ copper pads down the center and clip them in. In addition to corner connectors, wire leads let you build a custom angle or leap a distance, such between kitchen cabinets.

Mounting clips can prevent the LED strip glue from failing and making your project look drooping. For a little over 10 cents apiece, these will hold your strips better than conventional glue, and you don’t need that many. Place them in the corners and anywhere the strip isn’t totally flat on a surface to support the adhesive tape on the back and ensure a droop-free installation.

Third, ask yourself how often you’ll desire a color other than white for your led strip.

“RGB” LED strips have Red, Green, and Blue LEDs. Turn on Red and Blue for pink, Red and Green for yellow, and Red, Green, and Blue for white. It’s not the pure white we’re used to, so it looks purple and disgusting. To avoid this, buy all-white strips or RGBW strips with a white channel.

Some RGBW strips include all 4 colors on a single chip, while others have a separate white and RGB chip. For visible LED installations, pick the 4 in 1 chip because you won’t be able to mix the white channel with a color channel otherwise. For indirect illumination, choose the separate white chip, which is brighter and has greater heat dissipation. In regions where color isn’t needed, utilize all-white strips or tunable white strips to customize the white channel color temperature.

Fourth, consider your LED strip’s length and brightness.

For short runs or low brightness, you can use practically any voltage, but for long runs and high brightness, use a higher voltage strip. Higher voltages result in more accurate colors throughout the strip and less brightness changes as you move away from the power supply.

Because LED strips and power supplies aren’t usually supplied together, you’ll need to acquire the proper one. Choosing a power source doesn’t require an electrical engineering degree. Voltage never varies, but wattage and amperage do. If you daisy-chained 3 24 volt, 5 amp, 120 watt LED strips, you’d require a power supply rated for at least 15 amps and 360 watts. Amps and watts can be overdone, but voltage must match.

Alongside electricity consumption is LED density.

Greater LED density makes the strip more expensive, but it also improves color accuracy, diffusion, and brightness. Increasing the strip’s density improves its appearance even through a diffuser. The lowest density available is 30 LEDs per meter, and they can go up to 144 LEDs per meter, or even more like this crazy white LED strip from BTF lighting that has no visible individual LEDs, but a long continuous tape of tiny white LEDs that are only identifiable at very low brightness.

Why settle for less? Density causes power consumption, which causes heat, which kills LEDs. Their longevity and brilliance decrease as they get hotter. The aluminum channels explained earlier do a terrific job dissipating heat from your LED strip, but occasionally mounting your strips to metal isn’t an option.

In an aluminum channel, heat will transfer through the back of the strip into the large metal enclosure, but if you mount your strip to wood, which is notoriously bad at transferring heat, you’ll need to plan for adequate airflow across the top of your LEDs, which leads me to my next point: waterproofing.

LED Strips come in 3 waterproofing types: IP 2-0 or 3-0, which means no waterproofing where the electronics are directly exposed, IP 6-5, which covers the top of the strip in a waterproof siliCONE layer that is sufficient for LED strips that may occasionally be splashed or exposed to high humidity, and IP 6-7, A watertight siliCONE sleeve seals the strip. Buying waterproofing is unnecessary.

Individually addressable LEDs? Individually addressable LED strips have LEDs that do different things.

On a typical strip, each LED has a common positive voltage and separate control, but the red, blue, and green controls are shared. In an individually addressable strip, each LED has a microprocessor that takes instructions for that LED, so each may do something different. Individually addressable LEDs can do things typical or “dumb” led strips can’t, but they’re not as user-friendly out of the box. You can buy prefabricated Bluetooth and wifi controllers for individually addressable strips, but without programming skills, you’ll have fewer possibilities and spend more on the strip. The majority of addressable LED strips are designed in such a way that a single non-functioning LED can render the entire strip inoperable. Traditional LED strips are cheaper and perform better unless you need addressable ones.

Last, people miscontrol their LED initiatives.

Most controllers are small infrared remotes, but if you need to grab a cheap plastic remote every time you want to turn on your LED strip, you definitely won’t do it very often. Bluetooth controllers that need you to launch an app on your phone are even less likely to get utilized. Connecting your strip’s power source to a switched outlet or smart switch will allow it to restart with the same settings as before. Better controls exist. The Shelly RGBW2 connects through WiFi and enables brightness and color settings via amazon echo or google assistant. It can also be tied up with a smart home hub to alter lights based on time of day or with an unconnected light switch. The RGBW2 only controls standard LEDs. If you’re looking for a prebuilt individually addressable LED controller, I’ve included some links in the description. However, you’ll get far more use out of them if you’re ready to write some code.

Did I overlook your mistake? Comment below. If you have questions concerning LED strip type or mounting alternatives, leave a comment or join us on the hookup home automation Facebook page. As always, thanks to all my great Patreon patrons for supporting my channel. If YOU’RE interested in sponsoring my channel, check out the links in the description. Please like and subscribe if you loved this video, and thanks for watching the hookup.

Pictures of beautiful LED light installations for inspiration

Bathroom mirror

Bathroom Mirror
Bathroom Mirror

Acoustic panels

Acoustic panels
Acoustic panels

Behind Piano

Behind Piano
Behind Piano

Office closet

Office closet
Office closet

Under the couch

Under the couch
Under the couch


Can LED strip lights go around corners?

If you bend the LED strip tape at the line where it is cut, it is possible to contour it to fit around corners even if it is not waterproof. Alternately, you can cut the LED strip light and solder a wire between the separate lengths to transport the power supply. This is an option for angles that are more difficult to work with.

Are LED strip lights dimmable?

While it is true that LED strip lights are generally not dimmable, there are a few key exceptions. Depending on the type of LED strip lighting you use, you may be able to control the intensity of your lights via a DC electrical signal, or PWM.

Using this method, you can adjust the brightness of your LED strip lights as you see fit, making them the perfect choice for any application that requires adjustable lighting.

Whether it’s mood lighting in your living room, workstation ambient lighting in your office, or even dynamic tracking lights onstage during production or performance, there’s no limit to what you can do with dimmable LED strip lights.

So go ahead and give them a try – with all their versatility and flexibility, they’re truly unlike any other form of illumination out there!

Do LED strip lights need a driver?

Do all LED lights need a driver? The short answer is no – not all LED strip lights require a driver in order to function properly. As with most lighting technologies, LED strip lights can be powered in either direct current (DC) or alternating current (AC).

However, only those LEDs that operate on DC typically require the use of an additional driver unit in order to function properly. This is because these kinds of strip lights are designed to run off low voltage electricity without the need for conversion by a standalone power supply.

On the other hand, there are also many different types of LEDs that are designed to operate using AC power sources such as mains voltage tapes and bulbs.

For example, these kinds of strip lights are often connected directly to standard electrical outlets without the need for an external driver unit.

Ultimately, whether or not LED strip lights require a driver depends on their specific design and operating requirements. So if you’re unsure about whether or not your LED ribbon needs a controller, it’s best to check with the manufacturer or consult with a lighting specialist for guidance.

Are LED strip lights waterproof?

LED strip lights are a versatile and durable lighting option, available in a range of different waterproof options. These LED strips can be installed almost anywhere – from bathrooms and kitchens to exterior spaces that require resistance to water.

Whether they are fully waterproof or just splash-proof, these LED strips provide an easy, energy-efficient solution for all your lighting needs.

So if you’re looking for bright, beautiful lighting that can withstand any weather conditions, invest in waterproof LED strip lights today!

Are LED strip lights bright enough?

Whether you are looking to install lighting in your home or workplace, LED strip lights are an excellent option. These versatile and durable lights are just as bright as any other light source, making them perfect for a wide range of applications. What’s more, they come in different lumen values, so you can easily choose the brightness level that works best for your needs. So if you want the brightest lights on the market, or simply need a reliable and energy-efficient lighting solution, LED strip lights are sure to fit the bill.


Installing LED strip lights around corners is a great way to add some extra light and ambiance to any room in your home! Follow the above steps and you’ll have them installed in no time. Be sure to purchase an LED kit that comes with everything you need for installation, including adhesive strips and a power adapter. Once they’re up, all you need to do is sit back, relax, and enjoy your new lighting!


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